Tonight was uneventful.  I riveted the rudder skins to the skeleton.  This was done exclusively with the pneumatic squeezer.  I was able to rivet the components together just as Van's instructions stated.  Pretty smooth evolution.  Tomorrow, I will be ready to use the tank sealant I bought to bond the trailing edge rudder to ensure I get it as straight as possible.

Below, is a picture of the rudder spar (R-902) forward side and one of the plate nuts that a rod end bearing will eventually be threaded into. 

This is a picture of the rudder horn (R-405PD) and the horn brace (R-710).   You can see that those four bottom attaching rivets were blind rivets.  After doing this, I did see where some builders stated the were able to squeeze these rivets with a longeron yoke.  I tried, but I couldn't get the outer two rivets so I decided to keep them all the same.  Van's rudder print allows for the optional use of blind rivets in this location.

Just another picture of the lowest reinforcement plate for the rudder spar.  Notice that this particular reinforcement plate is on the forward side of the spar.  On the plate nut installation in the picture above, the reinforcement plate was on the aft side of the rudder spar.  Read the instructions carefully....  In this case, I think that it will be obvious if this reinforcement plate is on the wrong side as the pieces/parts won't fit together real well.

This is a picture of the rudder counterbalance skin.  The lower row of flush rivets required bucking.  Pay particular attention here as rivet order can make your life difficult if done incorrectly.  The two philips screws attach the rudder counterbalance lead weight to the counter-balance rib (R-912).  When I "dry fitted" the weight onto the counter-balance rib, it fit perfectly.  However, after you rivet the counter-balance skin to the counter-balance rib, the rivets will stick out slightly.  The lead counter-weight will not fit correctly without removing some material from the sides.  You won't have to remove very much and then it will (should) lay in there flat.  Don't forget to torque the nuts that secure the lead counter-weight before riveting the tip rib into place.

One other item I probably didn't do well enough was that the edges of the counter-balance skin (right side of this picture) need to be tapered back so that when the rudder skin is riveted to the skeleton does not have any bulging transitions as it overlaps the counter-balance skin.