This log entry is just a cumulation of several shorter tank sessions.  I spent two separate nights sealing the inboard and outboard tank ribs and reinforcement plates.  Pretty straight forward, just really messy....

I ended up using the fuel pick-up tube that I fabricated a week ago or so.  It was long enough to clear the nutplates on the reinforcement ring.  It is not perfectly centered between the nutplate and stiffener.  What I was really demanding here is that the nothing touched and chaffed.  I tried twice to get a more centered fuel pick-up, but I wasn't any closer than this pick-up.  We are talking 1/16" difference here.  Precision tube bending....

Anyway, after I screwed on the inspection plate, I torqued the 6N fuel pick-up nut to 100 in-ibs.

I also torqued the vent line 4N fitting to 60 in-ibs. 

Notice that there are two wires on the inboard capacitive plate.  One connection goes to the outboard capacitive plate and the other connection goes to the BNC connector on the inboard tank rib.

Tank sealant for the inboard capacitive plate.

I applied sealant to the electrical hardware before I mounted the capacitive plate to the tank rib.  Made it a little easier to goop the tank sealant on and clean it up.

I fully encapsulated the outboard capacitive plate electrical hardware.

To attach the inspection plate, I used the cork gasket and "buttered" it with EZ-Turn lubricant and then placed it between the rib and the inspection plate.  I then attached the inspection plate with some 8-32 x 5/8" stainless steel socket head capscrews.  I wasn't able to torque them with a torque wrench, but I tried to tighten each screw equally by feel.

To finish off the fuel seal of the inspection plate, I topped the whole thing off with some tank sealant around the screws and the inspection plate.  Since I used EZ-Turn on the gasket, I removed all excessive lubricant as I doubt if the tank sealant would stick to it...   This is what I did with the right tank and I didn't have any sealing issues.

The only thing I have left on this tank is to get 1/2" of polypropylene tubing to insulate one of the capacitive plate mounting screws (long story), mount-solder-seal the BNC connector.  Then it is sealing the rear baffle plate and pressure testing.  Woo Hoo....

Well after a little sleep, work, and time to reflect on my vent line problem, I decided to see if I could rectify the vent clip problem today when I got home from work.  I fabricated a new vent line clip from aluminum sheeting that comes with the wing kit.  This is all pretty straight forward.  I liked how my last clip lined up with the vent line and held the vent line pretty high in the tank.  I strived to repeat that characteristic.

After repeated installing of the clip and some time on the scotchbrite wheel, I got a vent clip that sat pretty nice on the fuel filler flange.

My bigger problem was how was I going to set a solid rivet in this NARROW space.  Like I stated in earlier log entries, I used the rivet hammer and the back rivet attachment to form the shop head.  Well, that wasn't going to work here as I could no longer open the tank skin far enough to get the rivet hammer in there.  The only thing I could come up with was to remove my 3" yoke from my squeezer and use it for a bucking bar.  This worked pretty good (for doing 1 rivet).  I got a nicely formed shop head.  The vent clip and the filler flange looked good.  The hand holding the "bucking yoke" took a little hammering, but it was only one rivet.

It is a tight space and even as thin as the yoke is, it barely fit.

I mixed up a really small batch of tank sealant to encapsulate the filler flange, rivet, and vent clip.  I was pretty generous here as I certainly didn't want to have to try and fix a leak after the rear baffle was on.

While I was at it, I tried to push some tank sealant between the vent clip and the vent line to hold it in place and kind of work as an "anti-chafe" cushion.

It all looked good when I was done.  I decided to wait to rivet the outboard end rib until I am sure that this vent line is NOT BROKE, secured to the filler flange, and fully sealed.  I decided to call it an early night.

I don't have a lot of pictures to show for my efforts this weekend.  I started installing and sealing tank ribs which is a MESSY operation.  I have been dreading sealing my second AND last fuel tank.

I have been prepping my wife for a month or two about sealing the fuel tank as she doesn't like working on tanks either.  So the weekend arrived and I asked (I mean told her) that is was time to work on sealing the tank.  After a little groveling on HER part, she came out to the garage and grabbed the bucking bar.

No in-process pictures for the log.  Everything you touch (i mean look at) during a sealing session gets tank sealant all over it.  We were well on our way to finishing our second rib and Tami broke the relative silence of the garage air conditioner;

"You know, I hate to admit it, but sealing the fuel tank is more enjoyable than riveting the ailerons"   I shit you not!!!  That is what she said straight faced an all.  It was a good thing I was already sitting down on the garage floor when she said that.  I thought I was delirious and like a fool I asked her what she said and she repeated the statement over.  Maybe she is delirious.

Anyway, over the course of the weekend, I got 5 of the 7 tank ribs riveted and sealed.  So far, so good.  Tanks are an incredible amount of tedious work considering the brevity of this log entry.

Before I riveted the outboard end rib on and sealed it, I wanted to get my vent tube fabricated and routed through the tank.

WARNING:  An abbreviated version of tubing bending for dummies (me)...
I had ran the vent line through the tank (before I bent the offset) and measured the distance between the rib hole for the vent and where I drilled the hole in the inboard rib for the vent line ELL.  That distance (as best I could tell) was approximately 1 18/32".  Okay, now I need to bend the tubing such that it will actually line up with the Inboard rib ELL.  How did I do that on the last tank???  Ooh yeah, a little trigonometry.  One of the few times I have had to use what little math knowledge I have.  I figured that I would bend my tubing to provide a 60 degree offset.  Basically the tubing angle forms the hypotenuse of a right triangle and this is where it turns into a math problem.

Needing a finished offset distance of 1 18/32" (1.562"), I just took the cosine of angle 30 and solved for the hypotenuse (or actual tubing) length.  I came up with 1 26/32" (approximate is close enough).  So before I made any bends in the tubing, I made my first mark at the end of the vent line far enough away so that I could get my AN fitting on and make my tubing flare (Approx 3").  I then measured down the tubing 1 26/32" and made my second mark on the tubing.  This represents where the two bends will be started in the tubing to create my offset.

The two lines that were measured out on the tubing are where I started my bends.  I put the first line under the "0" on the tubing bender, bent to approx. 60 degrees.  Then move the tubing down to the second mark and place it under the "0".  It is important to properly orient the tubing here or end up with a shape that starts to approximate that of a STOP SIGN.

When I got done with my two bends for my offset, this is how it lined up.  Pretty darn good.....  If its not perfect, there is a little room to bend the tubing by hand over the width of the inboard bay.  By measuring out the bend, I didn't have to do any additional "tweaking".

I am really happy with my offset.  I couldn't have gotten it any closer if actually knew how to bend tubing.   Now I just need to put my AN fitting on the end and flare it.

Okay, what the heck is this?!?!??!?!?  Damn It !!!   I was routing my vent tube through the tank and as I fed the vent tube through the vent clip, I noticed that it moved fairly easy.  It isn't supposed to do that...  Uh oohh.  I briefly pondered whether or not to move the clip and just see how bad this was going to get.  Of course, I couldn't let something like this go.  It is easier to fix now than it will be to fix later.  I removed the vent tube and gave the clip a little tug.  It was clear that the only thing holding the vent clip in place was the tank sealant I gooped over it.  It was actually pretty tough to remove just being held in place by sealant.

I wonder how hard this will be to fix?

I used an x-acto knife to cut and remove tank sealant around the vent clip, drilled out the rivet and cleaned the area of tank sealant with the x-acto knife and a small rag soaked in MEK.  The clip area looks pretty good.  I should be able to re-apply tank sealant to the affected area, install a new vent clip, and have no problem getting a good seal.

The real trick, which I haven't figured out yet will be how to set a solid rivet in here.  My back rivet method isn't going to work as I can't open the tank skin enough to get the rivet hammer in here.  I am thinking that I may be able to use a 426 Cherrymax rivet here as they sit and look very close to the aesthetics of the solid rivet and the Cherrymax rivet is way overkill for this application.

To much to think about tonight.  I am going to take the rest of the night off, give this some thought, and fix it tomorrow.

I was supposed to go flying this morning for some more solo pattern work.  My CFI (and me) wanted some more solo time since it has been 9 months since I last flew on a regular basis.  I am getting ready for my first dual cross country.  Long story short, the weather was cruddy this morning so out to the garage I went to do more tank sealing.

On the right tank, I used alumiprep and a scotchbrite to clean and etch the aluminum prior to sealing.  Although that works okay, you have to be really careful to get everything thoroughly rinsed off.  On this tank, I decided that I would just use MEK and a scotchbrite pad.  After I scrub the parts thoroughly, I wiped them dry with a clean rag before the MEK evaporated.

No in-process pictures here as it is to difficult when you are sticking to everything.  As with the right tank, I have installed and sealed the tank vent fitting, a vapor return line, and the sealed nutplates used to secure the inspection cover.  I go a little overboard with tank sealant, but it worked for me on the last fuel tank.  I fully encapsulate rivet shop head and around the perimeter of the sealed nutplates.  If I did a good job here, the only fuel leakage path is through that big hole in the center.

Just a close up of the tank vent and fuel vapor return AN fittings.  I torqued these -4D fittings to 65 in-ibs and then fully encapsulated the fitting around the nut and up the 2 (or so) threads.

Here are the vent fittings from the outboard side.

I couldn't get real motivated to do more work on the plane today.  Installing the components on this rib make for a messy day.  I am wearing tank sealant on my arms, clothes and legs.  How does that stuff get EVERYWHERE???

DRAFT>>>  BLOG ENTRY NOT COMPLETE.
Okay, this log entry deals with the issues of whether or not to install a fuel return line.  I happened to be surfing Dan C's web site and came across a log entry he made while plumbing his purge valve and fuel selector where he stated that if he didn't have his tanks already sealed he would have run a fuel return line all the way back to the tanks.  Alright, now I am hooked I have to figure out if I want to put in a fuel return line and/or if I needed one.  I am not a motor-head by any stretch of the imagination so this was going to take some research.

When talking about fuel return lines, they are used for two, but distinctly different, functions:

1. Fuel Return-  If you are installing a "Subie" automobile conversion engine (Crossflow, or Engenfellner), then a fuel return line is required.  In an automobile, fuel return lines are used to keep a minimum amount of flow through the fuel system and a pressure regulator (or fuel controller) is used to control the fuel system pressure.  It maintains a certain pressure/flow by bypassing some flow from the injector rails back to the fuel tank.  This means that there is always fuel flow through the return line. Engenfellner aircraft engines have their engine installation manual on their web site and chapter 2 details how a fuel return is to be installed to support their engines. 
2. Fuel Vapor Return-  This is a somewhat different function than the fuel return briefly discussed above.  Application to light aircraft is further detailed below.

Allthough, these two functions are different, when researching this concept, I often seen them discussed interchangeably lending to my confusion.

Anyway, the rest of this entry is a little background on light aircraft fuel systems and was taken from the Airflow Performance purge valve installation manual. 
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Airflow Performance Purge Valve Background Info Excerpt
Modern light aircraft fuel injection systems are of the low pressure, constant flow type.  Fuel is metered and is delivered to air bled nozzles which atomize and spray the fuel at each intake valve.  Airflow Performance and Bendix fuel injection systems meter fuel to the engined based on air consumption.  The fuel regulator in both these types of injection systems do not return any fuel to the tanks, therefore only the fuel that is used by the engine flows through the fuel controller.

Vapor in these types of metering systems cause the fuel regulator to operate erratically and poor engine performance will result.  This is usually evident during hot restarts.  Hot restart problems are a typical complaint of pilots operating fuel injected engines.  After engine shut down, heat in the cowling and engine tends to boil the fuel in the fuel control, fuel pump, and related fuel metering components.  Some of the fuel expands in the nozzle lines and gets forced through the injector nozzles and into the engine.  This leaves hot fuel and fuel vapor throughout the complete fuel metering system, engine driven fuel pump included.

During an attempted start under this condition usually results in the engine starting for a moment then quitting.  The pilot is then faced with the decision of how to proceed with the start procedure.  Flooding the engine then cranking the engine until it starts is usually done.  This procedure is dependent upon battery life which sometimes expires before the engine starts.  Engines which use the high pressure diaphragm fuel pump, experience another problem which influences the ease of restarting the engine.  By their design, the diaphragm fuel pump acts like an accumulator when the engine is shut down.  This keeps fuel pressure on the fuel controller, and leakage in the idle cut off circuit of the fuel controller will allow the fuel to bleed off into the engine.  This can cause run on in idle cut off and flooding of the engine initially after shutdown.
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Okay, if I understand this all correctly....  You don't need a fuel return line to have a properly operating fuel system.  Even if you want to have a fuel return line, it does not necessarily have to go back to the tank.  Dan Checkoway ran his to

The map of fittings for my inboard rib is shown in the picture below.  I used the vent fitting for the left tank to plumb my return line.  I will order two more AN833-4D fittings to plumb this the same way in the left wing tank.

The inside of the tank for the return fitting is installed the same as the vent fitting.  I torqued this fitting to 55 in-Ibs and then covered it in tank sealant.  No additional tubing is required for the return line.  Fuel and vapor will be returned to the relatively cool fuel in the tank which will absorb the heat from the circulated fuel.

This was a relatively short night dealing with tank sealant.  My plan tonight was to finish the two outboard ribs, but I didn't quite make it.  The stick you see below has been one of the most useful of the tank sealant tools I have.  This stick is nothing more than a homemade plastic stick with 45 degree bevels at each end.  This stick is about the width of the tank rib flange.  I put a glob of sealant on the end of the stick and spread the tank sealant over all the rivet holes.  I ensure 360 degree coverage around each rivet hole in the skin and a relatively uniform amount sealant along the bead.  Very simple, yet works great.

Below, I installed the tank vent AN fitting (ELL) and torqued the nut to 55 in-ibs with a crows foot attachment to my torque wrench.  Between the rib and the fitting nut, there is a spacer washer so that the nut can be tightened down to the fittings threads.  As with all my tank sealing activities, I fully encapsulated the spacer washer and AN fitting nut.  I also (not intentionally) had tank sealant on the threads under the nut.  This made the nut turn fairly hard.  One thing is for sure, this will not loosen up under vibration.  I just hope that it doesn't leak.  To protect the rear threads, I did have vinyl electrical tape over the threads and the opening.  It sure makes easy work of sealing as you don't have to take toothpicks and clean sealant out of the threads. 

Don't make me explain how I know a toothpick will get in between the threads....

What is wrong with this picture????  Give up???  There are actually two extra holes in the rib (one on each side of the larger tooling hole).  Before realizing that there was a T-410 reinforcement plate that is riveted to the forward part of the outboard rib, I started fabricating a smaller plate to cover the tooling hole.  Oops, didn't need it.

I seemed to use alot more sealant on this rib than I did on the other tank ribs.  I believe that is was in the neighborhood of 60 grams.  I believe on the other ribs, I averaged right around 35 to 40 grams of sealant.  Of course, the reinforcement plate did take a little extra and I also heavily placed that gooey stuff on the leading edge of the tank.

Just another picture of the results of my tank sealant torture ritual done tonight.

Below, you can see the inside of the tank on that outer most bay.  Everything looks pretty good.  I kind of wish that the vent line sat a little higher in the tank that it appears here.

Tomorrow, I will see if I can talk my wife into helping one more night sealing the tank.  She is losing her interest in helping on the tank in a hurry.  She did tell me tonight that she would take the financial reimbursement equal to the cost of a new BMW convertible so that she could go on a spending spree for her quilting hobby.  Thanks Dave P. for giving her the idea on the BMW and $$$$ thingy.

My log entries have been kind of slow this week.  Working with tank sealant is not very conducive to taking photographs.  Earlier in the week, Tami and I were able to install 3 tank ribs in one session.  So if you are keeping count, that means I have 5 of the 7 tank ribs riveted and sealed.  That leaves the two outboard ribs.  Therefore, I started working on the vent line and capacitance senders so I could rivet the LAST TWO ribs.
With capacitance fuel senders, you run the wire wrapped along the vent line so the instructions tell you to notch the snap bushing in order to make room for the 18 AWG wire.  It doesn't take much of a notch to fit the wire through the snap bushing.  I just used the Dremel tool and a small cutter bit to remove the small amount of material.

For my vent line, I measured the offset between the root rib and the next outboard rib.  Based on my vent fitting location, I needed to make a approximately a 2" off-set between the vent fitting and the hole in the next rib.  I decided to make this a 60 degree, 2" off-set.  This involved a new skill as I haven't had to use the tubing tools I bought for the project up to this point.  Again, I kind of made the off-set a math (trigonometry) problem to see where I needed to make my bends.  Three tries later, I had my 2" off-set.

After I checked my fit in the tank, I used the flare tool to put a flare in the vent tubing (don't forget to put on the AN sleeve and nut on the tubing before making your flare.)

Here is a picture of the outboard end of the fuel tank, the vent, and the fuel filler flange.  When making the T-714 clip, make sure that it will hold the vent line about where the bottom of the filler flange is (the vent line needs to be at the high point of the tank).  That way, you won't have to do any exotic tubing bends in the tight space to keep your vent fitting secure AND high in the tank.  As you can see, the vent line comes right out of the snap bushing and right into the T-714 clip.  I had to modify the vent clip as it was originally to long (low).  I cut it off, de-burred the end, and re-bent it to hold the vent line.  (If you remember, the rivet that holds the skin, fuel filler flange and vent clip gave me some trouble during installation so I had to hurry and make another clip before the tank sealant cured>>  ARGHH).

This is a picture of where I am trying to correct a tubing length issue.  I did not allow enough room for the AN ELL fitting on the in-board rib.  I had to trim about a 1/2" off, debur, and re-flare.  This flaring tool works GREAT!!!  I had no problem getting it into this somewhat confined space.

I could have just moved the tubing over in the tank, but I had all of my capacitance sender wires wrapped around the vent line and it was just easier to cut and re-flare.

Everything looks good.  When I re-installed the in-board rib, I had near perfect alignment.  WooHooo!!!

This picture kind of back tracks in the actual sequence of how things were actually worked today.  These are the insulating washers that you put between the rib and the capacitance sender plates.  When they were manufactured, the washers were not cleaned up with the excess molding material (in the Navy, we called this "Irish Pennants">>  Don't grade me on my spelling).  I didn't want this stuff to eventually flake off and get into the fuel line.  It is some pretty tough stuff, but I am not taking chances.  Besides, it looks better after the washers were cleaned up.

To clean the edges up, I took an X-acto knife and scraped the edges of the washers.  The bottom two are what they looked like after I was done.  It is all about "piece-of-mind" by trying to ensure some quality of construction.  For goodness sake, it is just an airplane.

Attaching the wire to the outboard sender was a piece of cake.  You have plenty of wire you can pull out to move the plate around to get on the screw and nut to tighten everything up.  When I got the wire/lug attached to the outboard sender plate, I mounted it to the rib so that I could final measure the wire to the inboard sender.
Okay, now the trick...   When you attach your inboard sender plate, the wire from the outboard sender is cut to length.  That doesn't give you a whole lot of room to move the plate around so that you can get on the screw and nut to tighten it up.  Additionally, the inboard sender has two lugs that are attached to the plate.  One from the outboard sender and one from the BNC coax connector on the inboard rib.  What I did to obtain enough room to attach the lugs to the inboard sender plate was remove the outboard plate from the rib so that I could pull a little wire through to the inboard sender plate.  You can get about 4-5" of extra wire on the inboard side to attach everything together.

This is a picture of the inboard side.  As you can see, there are several extra inches of wire that will allow me to attach the inboard plate.

This shows the inboard tank bay.  As you can see, the last thing that I will connect for the capacitance senders is to solder the lead to the BNC connector.  Sequence was important here.  If you soldered the BNC first, then you would not be able to pull any extra through to land the lugs on the inboard sender plate.

Once the inboard plate lugs were screwed on and tightened, the instructions have you put tank sealant over the screw, nut, lugs and wire to kind of seal everything up.  It also has you put a dab of sealant on the head of this screw.  I fully encapsulated everything and made sure the tank sealant was not touching anything on the tank creating a ground path circuit.  These senders will not work if one of the plates is grounded (connected electrically) to the tank.

With the inboard rib hardware almost in place, one last thing I wanted to check before riveting and sealing the inboard rib was the range of the flop tube.   I wanted to make sure there was not any possible orientation(s) that would result in a hang-up of the flop tube.

Normal flight, the flop tube rests in the bottom corner.  It physically cannot get lodged under and between the sealed plate nuts and stiffener.  No problem.

This orientation represents "knife-edge" flight with right wing down.  Flop tube does not rub or hit anything.  No hang-up concerns.

This picture is inverted flight.  The inspection hole strap prevents the flop tube from banging up against the plate nuts as it re-orients to the top of the tank.  I couldn't physically push, pull, or otherwise tug on the the flop tube to put it in a position of getting hung up on any of the plate nuts.  No concern in this orientation...

Just a close up of the flop tube near the inspection hole plate nuts (inverted).  As you can see, there is no possible way that the flop tube can get hung up on the plate nuts.

This orientation is knife edge flight with right wing up.  This was coming from being previously inverted.  The flop tube has not re-oriented itself as of yet.  Again, even if the flop tube moved to the the other side of the tank, the anti-hang-up strap on the inspection hole would prevent it from chafing up against the plate nuts.  When I continued rotation to normal flight, the flop tube immediately repositioned itself to the bottom of the tank.  No concerns here either...

Physically pushing the flop tube over, I could not get it to reach the trap door.  Additionally, it can not get lodged between the end of the stiffener and the rib.  Van's instructions (as vague as they are here) have you put a anti-hang up bracket that is angled down from the rib web to the aft stiffener (where the flop tube is at in the picture below.  I didn't put that anti-hang-up bracket in as it does not seem to serve any real purpose here that I can see.

So far, so good...  No concerns.

Again physically pushing the flop tube over, I also could not get it to reach the rib hole I covered with scrap aluminum. 

I didn't take the next two pictures showing the flop tube anti-rotation device, however, a discussion came up on this in the Yahoo group after I had finished my tank.  One builder was having a hard time keeping the ell fitting from rotating when the flop tube would reposition.  Supposedly, Van's had recommended to other builders with the same problem, to install a anti-rotation device for the flop tube.  I didn't find anything on the prints or instructions that told me to install an anti rotation device, so this must be something that Van's has been recently recommending.

I can't remember who had posted these, but he did a nice job, so I added hid pics to my log entry.  Looks simple enough as long as you don't already have your tank sealed.

I imagine that if the flop tube ell started rotating (if not restrained) that it could result in a tank leak at that fitting.

I borrowed a multimeter from work (I ordered a Fluke 177 from rhinotoolshop.com and it is supposed to be here next week.  They had the cheapest prices on Fluke DMM's I could find on the net).  Before getting to far on the tank, I wanted to make sure that the capacitance plates were isolated from the rest of the tank.  The "OL" is good.  That means there is a high resistance between the tank skin and the capacitance plates.

Next, I wanted to ensure that the two plates were electrically connected together and had a LOW RESISTANCE.  The meter reads 0.5 ohms which is low.  When I checked the resistance of the test leads, they read 0.5 ohms.  So if I subtract the resistance of the test leads from the indicated value, the resistance between the plates is 0 ohms.  THAT IS GOOD.

Today, was enjoyable.  I just took my time thinking things through and enjoying the "building process".  The weather was COOL.

Today, Van's sent me confirmation of my fuselage order.  It is scheduled to ship July 19th.  Add two weeks for freight and I should have the fuselage in the garage sometime around August first.  It may be difficult to accept delivery while I am at Airventure...  Regardless, I better get my butt in gear on the wings or I won't even be close to ready.

I had to chuckle when Van's sent the invoice.  Down in big letters at the bottom it stated:

* Verify RV-7 or RV-7A *

How did they know that I cannot make up my mind and that I change it on an hourly basis...  You mean I can still change my order???  I read the fine print on page 2 and it stated I could change my mind, but all changes were required to be in writing.

Well back to my current reality...  It feels like this tank prep work is never going to end...  Tonight, I got the inboard rib tank vent line and the BNC connector hole for the capacitance senders drilled.  Determining placement was the most difficult part AND I don't think it matters as long as you are on the rib somewhere.  Whenever Van's doesn't offer specific instructions, I think that I am missing something.  Well, Van's states to put the vent in an approximate location and has an arrow on the print.  OKAY, that is exactly what I did.  For the capacitance sender connection (BNC Jack), the print states to place this connection approximately 2" from the vent line and 3/4" from the rib flange.

The spacer washer highlighted below is necessary to secure the tank vent AN833-4D fitting to the thin rib web.  I didn't think Van's mentioned it, but after closer review of the print, there was an annotation to this fact.
You can also see a close up of my first tank sealant work.  We electricians have a saying when soldering: "Bigger The Blob, The Better The Job".  I wonder if that applies to tank sealant as well?  Kidding aside, I was pretty happy how those sealed plate nuts turned out.

Last, but not least, Tami came out for a little over an hour and helped disassemble the fuel tank, remove vinyl on the external side of the skin and debur everything.

I have a lofty goal for this week.  As everyone knows, it is Memorial Day weekend this upcoming weekend.  With our screwy schedule at work, I have Friday off.  That means a 4-day weekend for me.  I am planning on putting in an air conditioner on Friday and the rest of the weekend is committed to the plane.  If temperatures cooperate, I want to have the tank done by the time I go back to work on Tuesday...  Wish me luck.