Today, I decided to I could no longer delay myself from starting back up on the wings.  I have been working on things around the house and working some more of that free "salaried overtime".  Anyway, I have been reviewing my logs and looking over the wings to see where I left off on them so long ago.

I decided that I could pickup on some odds and ends that lent themselves to mindless riveting and clecoing.....
I started by riveting the aileron brackets to the rear spar.  Note the gray primer touch up job.  Well, when I left off last, I started riveting the aileron brackets to the spar when I realized that the rivet under the gray primer was actually a AN470 rivet instead of a AN426 rivet as called for by the prints.  Last time I stopped in Plattsmouth, I checked Kevin Faris's project out and check the air gap between the aileron and this bracket.  Sure enough, if the aileron didn't rub on the rivet head, it was EXTREMELY close....  I decided to drill out that rivet and install a AN426 rivet as called out in the plans.

Of course, I made the mistake on the inboard and outboard aileron brackets.

Once I got done with fixing the aileron brackets, I clecoed up the aileron gap seal and riveted it to the wing.

Next I started riveting the leading edge on the right wing to the spar.  It had been so long since I worked on the wing, I took about an hour or so and checked my rigging of the spar in the stand.  I made sure that there was no sag or twist in the spar.  Once i verified that I was good here, I proceed in clecoing the top skin to the skeleton.

I pretty much riveted the leading edge to the wing spar exactly as I did with the right wing with one exception.  I used the Cherrymax rivets to attach the wings outboard ribs to the spar.  See my right wing leading edge log entry.  Right wing leading edge entry

This went pretty fast considering that I haven't done much in the last year +...

The leading edge, now attached permanently to the wing...

I made reservations with my bucking partner to rivet the top skins on tomorrow after work.  We should be able to make quick work of that (relatively) if we get started right after work (and I don't have to put in some of that free salaried overtime I have been getting plenty of).

Working on the log entries for the wing lately feels like I am just regurgitating log entries I made with the right wing.  Therefore, I am omitting a lot of detail here if it is something I covered when doing my right (1st) wing.
Today, my goal was to get all the z-brackets drilled and get ready for riveting the leading edge together on Saturday.  Below, I am following the same method for z-bracket drilling I used on the right wing.  I first drilled the inboard z-bracket and rib.  You can sort of see in the picture where I marked the center of the z-bracket flange where it is clecoed to the rib and baffle plate.  Since you can slide the tank an 1/8 to the top of and/or bottom of the wing, I marked the center of the z-bracket and that is where I drilled the center rivet hole for the rib and clecoed it in place.

Within a couple of minutes, I had drilled the 5 z-bracket holes to size #30.

Then I proceeded to the outboard of the fuel tank and lined up the leading edges of the tank and leading edge.  You can see on this tank, I used a ratchet strap to put a SLIGHT force on the tank to line up the two leading edges.  When I was happy with their alignment, I drilled the tank screw attach holes to the attach plate with a #19 drill bit.

Here is my a couple of pictures of my ratchet strap set-up.  Note on the rear spar, I have a piece of scrap 4" x 4" block.  This was to prevent the strap from bending the wing skin clecoed to the skeleton.  The top skin overhangs the rear spar by a little to form part of  gap seal.  I didn't want the ratchet strap to apply any force to the skin and bend it.  MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!!

Just my strap arrangement from the top side of the skin.  I just tried to be careful with the location of the ratchet mechanism and the hooks.

After you drill the inboard rib to z-bracket holes, then the next step is to remove the leading edge to gain access to the outboard tank rib and z-bracket.

With the ratchet strap in place, it also performed a second unintentional feature of holding the tank place and kept it from moving.  A big nylon, adjustable cleco if you will....

Once the outboard rib has been drilled and clecoed to the z-bracket, then remove the tank keeping the inboard and outboard ribs clecoed to the z-brackets.  This holds the baffle plate in place so that the rest of the baffle plate to z-bracket rivet holes can be drilled.

I didn't get any pictures of prepping and priming the leading edge and z-brackets.  As you can see below, the z-brackets are primed with the exception of the flange that will be attached to the tank baffle plate.  I didn't want the primer to interfere with the tank sealant.

Also I think that Van's has done a less than stellar job on these z-brackets.  On this tank, I got the nutplate holes almost perfectly centered on the one flange.  However, the other flange (that attaches to the tank baffle plate) results in its holes very close to the web of the z-bracket.  I checked, and I will still be able to get the pop rivets in there to attach the z-brackets to the tank.

Basically, I would think that Van's could easily move the holes on the main spar to move the z-bracket over about 1/16", the holes on both z-bracket flanges would be dang near perfectly centered.

Below, I am drilling for the nutplates by using 3 sacrificial nutplates that I tapped out when I was working on the right tank so that I could easily screw on and remove the nutplates.

After drilling out for the nutplates, it didn't take long to countersink for the nutplate rivets and rivet the nutplates to the z-brackets (that is except for the inboard z-bracket).

With a little persuasion, I got Tami to help me rivet the leading edge together.  Now when I ask her for help, before she will answer, she asks me if we are working on the tank?  She has been really good at helping me with the exception of the sealing the tank.  I guess I can't blame her.  I don't want to mess with the sealant either.

We are getting fairly proficient at riveting AD3- rivets.  Tami has decided she likes bucking more than shooting.  It doesn't matter to me as long as she helps.

On the right wing, I got in the habit of putting a piece of tape over the rivet hammer attachment.  The benefit of that is that it prevents the rivet hammer from scratching the surface of the skin around the rivet.  Well, on the leading edge, I had to drill out 3 rivets because the factory head of the rivet pinched off a piece of tape and the tape got trapped under the shop head (Yes, I changed the tape every 3 or 4 rivets).  Dag Bernit!!!  After that, I said screw the tape on the rivet hammer.  Since the plane will be painted, it really isn't a big deal to have some minor scratches resulting from the rivet hammer.  I figured that not having any scratches around the rivets would make the skin look nice until the time it was painted....

Tonight I decided to get the leading edge together.  I worked on this for about 2 hrs and only got 2 pictures.  How boring.  More interesting tonight was that Dan Checkoway finally updated his web site to include his experiences on their recent cross-country flying vacation.  So between drilling holes and eating dinner, I had to catch up on the latest flying news.  I thought maybe there for a while, he was done updating his web site.
Okay, back to building my own plane.  The 2nd leading edge clecoed together with no problems.  I didn't get any of the bulges on the skin I had with the right leading edge as I "adjusted" the ribs before putting the leading edge together for the first time.  When I mounted the leading edge to the spar, it fit perfectly.  No further notching required of the wing stand attach angles.

I clecoed this sucker together and match drilled all the holes.  I used the red sharpie marking method I started using on the left wing skins so that I didn't miss any holes while moving clecoes around.

Just a picture of the top side.  Tonights log entry is almost not even worth the web server space.

No pictures, but I also got the leading edge to fuel tank attach plate measured out and ready to drill to the leading edge inboard rib.

I must be have learned something on the first wing.  I didn't get this far for two hours worth of work on the right wing leading edge.

Right Wing Leading Edge (Detailed Log Entry)

I had read the horror stories of builders trying to get a rivet hammer and bucking bar in to setting the solid rivets that attach the leading edge ribs to the main spar.  It is true that these holes are REALLY, REALLY close to the web of the wing ribs.  In fact, even the clecoes could not sit straight (square) on the spar web.

I had decided based on talking with Kevin Faris, that I was going to skip making "smilies" with solid rivets and the subsequent drilling proficiency time and go directly to using blind structural rivets.  I decided that I would use Cherrymax rivets made by Textron Aerospace.

I pulled the Cherrymax rivets with the $5 Harbor Freight rivet puller I ground down for pulling the tank z-bracket blind rivets.
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Excerpt from Textron's web page:
Bulbed CherryMAX® is a lock spindle blind rivet with a visibly inspectable mechanical locking device and its own installation anvil, which eliminates the problems resulting from worn tool anvils. The CherryMAX® rivet is the most reliable, high strength structural fastener with visual inspectibility in the world today.  It features the "Safe-lock" locking collar for more reliable joint integrity.
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The picture below shows what the installation looks like after setting the Cherrymax rivets.  The visual inspection performed verifying that these rivets were pulled correctly is to look in the center of the rivet, there is a locking collar that sits flush with the factory head.

Two different sizes of Cherrymax rivets that were necessary to attach the leading edge included:

• CR3213-4-4.  This size was used where the main spar reinforcement was present as in the picture above.  (First 3 inboard ribs)
• CR3213-4-2.  This size is used near on the next two outboard ribs were no spar reinforcements were present.
• Standard solid rivets were used on the outboard rib as called out in the print.  These were easy enough to set with a rivet hammer and bucking bar.

The Cherrymax rivet sizes were determined using their "grip gage" which you have to buy extra.

I ended up self-inducing one mistake in that I used the 4-4 rivets on a rib that needed a 4-2 rivet.  I found my mistake after I set 4 of the 5 rivets and realized I could move them up and down when I pushed on them.  Ooops.  FARGH?#@>?!!?.  Take a difficult rivet to gain access to and make it a blind rivet on top of that, then try and drill them sucka's out!!

Here is what I found worked to drill these out:

• Drill out like a standard rivet until the rivet begins to spin in the hole (watch it carefully, you don't want to distort your holes).  It may be necessary to use the spring loaded punch to try and push the locking collar back.
• Take a spring loaded center punch and "snap" it a couple of times or until the locking collar and stem are ejected out the back of the rivet.
• Use a sharp pair of diagonal cutters (really small pair) and cut the factory head off.  On one or two of them, I had to make vertical segmented cuts and take the factory head out in small chunks with the diagonal cutter.
• Check hole and do a "happy dance" if it was not enlarged / deformed.

I got all four of those rivets out without hole distortion.  I now know first hand that those are a TOUGH if not EXTREMELY STUBBORN blind rivet.  Then again, they better be for almost $0.50 each.

I squeezed the skin to main spar flange rivets.  There are a lot of them!!  Easy, mindless work there.  Good thing, it was getting late. 

Ready to skin the top side....

My goal today was to get my first landing light behind me.  Today, involved another building first for me as I have never worked with plexiglass before and wasn't sure what to expect.  The first thing I did was make a "square" outline of how I wanted to trim the lens.  It is plenty big when it comes out of the box.  I made the lens 1" bigger than the light hole opening on all sides.

I then taped up one side of the plexiglass lens with masking tape.  I didn't want to put any scratches in the lens while I was doing all of my cutting.

I was able to cut the lens with the bandsaw.  I trimmed the lens to within 1/8" of my markings.  To take the lens to final dimension, I got out the belt sander and used a 160 grit belt.  That made quick work of removing the 1/8" of plexiglass.  During this stage, I wore a 3M respirator as there was a lot of plastic dust being generated.
Once, I had the "square" I wanted in the plexiglass, I just radiused the corners with the belt sander.  I drew the radius I wanted on the lens using the paper template I used to cut out the landing light in the leading edge.
To finish the edges, I used some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and then followed that with some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.  This darn near left a polished edge on the plexiglass.

The picture below is after I got Tami to hold the "tape handles" to hold the lens up against the inside of the leading edge so I could drill the mounting holes.  You first drill the holes to #40 then remove and clean out the plexiglass shavings.  Then reinstall (use your tape handles to hold again), and drill the holes out to #30.  Remove and debur, but you still are not done drilling plexiglass.

The Duck's instructions then have you drill out the plexiglass holes to 5/32" and then countersink so that the leading edge skin will sit up against the plexiglass.  This sort of worked.  I think on the left wing, I am going to first countersink the hole to depth and then final dril to 5/32".  The reason for this change is that when the hole has been drilled to 5/32", the pilot is not guided by the plexiglass and it results in the countersink cutters chattering.  I thought I was going to crack the plexiglass.

Below, I am ready to install the plexiglass lens in the picture below.  The one thing I needed to do that was not in the Duck's instruction was to put a slight twist (bend) in the ends of the retaining strips.  Since the lens has a curve to it, the retaining strips were hitting the plexiglass lens right on the corners of the retaining strips.  After putting the slight twist in the retaining strips, the retaining strip could be tightened up against the lens without creating a single point of pressure on the plexiglass.

To position the plexiglass and hold it in position while starting the mounting screws, I had use the tape handle again.  The adhesive foam tape used to hold the retainer strips in place doesn't hold real well when trying to get your screws started.  It did work, but I thought the retainer was going to fall off before I got the first screw started.

One point worth mentioning here is that the instructions state to dimple the skin holes with a size #30, but experiment with a larger dimple die on a piece of scrap in order to get a better fit.  Well, dimpling with a #30 results in the 6-32 screws not sitting flush with the skin.  Dimpling with a #6 screw dimple die (CAT# DIE509-6) resulted in the screw head sitting flush to the skin like it should.  I am not sure why the Duck's instructions stated to dimple with a #30.

Okay, the picture below is where I decided to mount the ballast/igniter (The XenDrive) for the HID lamp.  This is the outside of the outboard leading edge rib.  The Duck's instructions state that you can mount this to the lamp mounting plate and that is where I intended to put it.  However, it will not fit there.  Physical dimension wise, yeah you could mount it there, but you would not be able to plug in the two wiring harnesses to the igniter.  Before I settled on this location, I looked at the fiberglass tips to ensure that there was nothing in there that would interfere with the igniter placement when I installed the wingtips.

I had to mount the igniter at a slight angle so that I could hit flat portions of the rib.  The Duck gives you two plate nuts, but you will need to use all three mounting holes in order to mount it securely (my opinion).  That means you will be short one K1000-3 plate nut and a stainless steel mounting screw (no big deal as Duckworks gives you the wrong length screws anyway).

Here is the next challenge with the igniter installation.  In the kit, you are given 10-32 x 3/8" stainless steel pan head philips screws.  What I don't like about this, is that the screws are not long enough to protrude out the back side of the plate nut.  When installing them, I didn't feel any resistance to the screw like I should while screwing to a plate nut.  This lack of resistance leads me to believe that these are to short to get proper grip in the plate nut.  Additionally, I would like to see at least two threads protruding from the back of the plate nut.
How hard do you think it is to find stainless steel screws???  Don't go to Home Desperate and think you will find them.  Wicks>> NOPE, Aircraft Spruce>>  NOPE, Microfastener.com>> NOPE not to size 10-32...

I actually found stainless steel screws of 10-32 in varying lengths at boltdepot.com.  I would have never guessed that those screws would have been that hard to find.  Their prices are reasonable, but they zing you on shipping if you are only buying a couple of fasteners.  YES, they will sell you one screw if that is all you want.

I put the leading edge back on the wing for the time being.  Here you can see the top side of the landing light and the location of the igniter module.

A picture of the bottom side of the leading edge.  The light installation looks pretty good from here.

I had heard that some builders were not real happy with the fit of these lenses.  I think this is probably what they are referring to.  This is a real closeup picture so it looks like there is a HUGE gap here.  There isn't, I am just really close with the camera...  When Tami and I were drilling for this lens, we really had some force on the lens with our "tape handles" so I know this is as close as you are probably going to get it to your skin.  The kit gives you some foam tape to put in here as a weather seal.  I checked it and I have compression of this foam tape all the way around the lens so hopefully I won't get to much water in here.

Next light, I am thinking of heating the lens plexiglass up so that it is more flexible.  Maybe doing that with the same tape handle technique, we can pull it in tighter.  I doubt it, but I will probably try it anyway.

Overall, the light kit installation isn't to difficult.  I was a nervous cutting into the wing skin and working with the plexiglass.  I think the key here is to work slowly and methodically.  Being in a hurry may end up costing you time in re-work.

Today was my day off and at 8:30 AM, the UPS man was ringing my doorbell making my large delivery of 16 10-32 pan head philips screws I ordered for securing my "XenDrive" igniter for the HID lamp.  If you need a bolt (non aircraft grade), this place will probably have it.  They got my order out and it was delivered very quickly.
When I opened the package, I was surprised to see that they shipped some M&M's for free.  Well not really, they charged me $9 for shipping.  Anyway, this was a unexpected nice gesture.  I would order from this place again if I needed to (not because they sent me free M&M's).

I ate the M&M's and installed the stainless steel screws to mount the HID igniter/ballast.  I ended up using 10-32 stainless steel phillips pan head screw 1/2" in length.  As you can see in the picture below, I have at least two threads past the end of the plate nut.  Just what I wanted.

I torqued the mounting screws to 25 in-Ibs and applied some torque seal.  The torque seal wasn't really necessary, but it won't hurt anything either.  Now all I have left to do is route the wires to the lamp.

I am installing two Duckworks HID landing lights on the plane (one in each wing in case you were wondering).  I tested the HID lamps when I first got them.  MAN ARE THEY BRIGHT.  I have been kind of nervous about this task for some time.  After you get your leading edge riveted together, you CUT A BIG HOLE IN IT!!!  That just isn't right.

First things first, I had to determine the location for the light cutout.  Duckworks gives you a pretty straight forward template that shows the top of the light cutout 18.75" from the top edge of the leading edge skin.  This surface is curved and I found it somewhat difficult to accurately measure this (even with a flexible tape measure).  So I cut a string to 18.75 inches and taped one end of the string at the top edge of the leading edge skin (say that tongue twister 3 times fast).

I ended up measuring this about a half dozen times before I got the paper template properly positioned.  The other mark for template placement is the left edge of the paper should intersect the centerline of the inboard ribs row of rivets.

I always measure at least twice.  As a backup to my "calibrated string", I double checked my placement of the paper template.  The two measurements agreed.

Here is just a picture of the template from the bottom side of the leading edge.  If you can't tell, I decided to do all this fabrication with the leading edge clecoed to the wing spar.  Mainly because this gave it a solid mount while I was cutting this hole out.  It worked great.

For the first step, I used the die grinder with a 3" cut-off wheel and did a rough cut.  I had never used a die grinder and cut-off wheel so I wasn't sure what to expect.  I held it firmly and left plenty of room between the die grinder and the sharpie marker finished edge.  The die grinder was pretty docile.  Turned out my fear of what the cut-off wheel was going to do to my wing skin was unfounded.

Next, I switched over to a rotary burr bit.  WOW are these things aggressive.  It filed away the aluminum like soft butter.  By the time I was done I wearing so many aluminum chips it looked like I had a severe case of aluminum dandruff.

Even as aggressive as the rotary burr bits are they were also very controllable.  I was able to take the opening right up to the edge of the sharpie markings.  I left about 1/16" so that I could use a vixen file to straightened everything up.

Using the fine teeth on the vixen file, I was able to straighten up the lines on the cutout.  When the cut is not a straight line, the rotary burr bit becomes a little harder to accurately control.  I just took it slow as you could make a big boo-boo VERY FAST with the rotary burr bit.

To finish the cutout, I used a 1" deburring wheel in the die grinder to further remove small amounts of material.  When I was happy with that, I switched to a 1" polishing wheel to further finish the edge.  Last but not least, I used a 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to put the finishing touches on the cutout.

It turned out great.  I am really happy with my results.

Once finished with the hole cutout, you put the paper template back on and drill the holes for the retainer strips (3 on each).  Attention to detail is important here so that you don't accidentally drill out the plate nut rivet holes here.  Only drill out the plate nut screw hole.

Then came time to remove the leading edge from the wing so that the rest of the fabrication could be done on the bench.  The picture below is just a small sampling of the aluminum chips resulting from the rotary burr bits.  Like I said, severe case of aluminum dandruff.

Duckworks gives you a rib template that shows you exactly where to put the two holes for mounting the mount plate nuts.  Pretty straightforward here.  I feel like I have already done 1000 plate nuts on this project.  I used the solid rivets supplied with the light kit.  I was able to squeeze these rivets on the outboard holes with no problems.  Squeezing the holes on the inboard rib was another story.  I had to remove the yoke from my pneumatic squeezer, put the yoke through the lightening hole and then reassemble the squeezer.  It only took a couple of minutes to do all that.  Use the 2.5" longeron (flange nose) yoke as it fits in there the best.

Ducksworks sent an addendum page with my instructions as he had changed this light mount plate to be a one piece mount for the RV-7 and 8.  Older lighting kits required you to measure the spacing between the two ribs, drill holes and rivet the two pieces of this mount plate together.  However, he didn't account enough for the bend in the flange and made the brackets to short.  He stated to correct this, set an offset bend in the flange and it would effectively lengthen the mount plate to the correct size (it is approximately 1/4" to short).  Between the bench vice and the seaming pliers I was able to make the appropriate bends.  Didn't turn out to badly...

Here I have the HID lamp mounted to the leading edge and it looks pretty good so far.

This isn't a very good picture, but it shows the light mount screwed the leading edge ribs.  The holes in the light mount are very big so Duckworks uses a washer between the screw and the light mount.  These large holes also give you the "screw slop" necessary to have a little adjustment so that these things can be properly positioned after the plane is together.

I have 6 hours in mounting this landing light.  I haven't touched the plexiglass cover and mounting position of the HID lamp igniter/ballast yet.  This definitely takes more time than the couple of hours the Duck claims on his instruction sheet..

My goal for the day was to get the leading edge riveted and started cutting out the Duckworks landing light.  However, I did not factor in that today is Andy's senior prom and his girlfriend wanted her hair done by Tami (she is an ex-beautician).  Well, Tami can't rivet while styling hair.  I had the leading edge clecoed together and the frame clamped to the bench ready to go.

While Tami was waiting for Andy's girlfriends hair to dry, she came out and we started shooting rivets.  We no more than got started and Tami's daughter, Nichole called (she lives with her dad and his wife in St. Paul, MN).  She called to tell mom that she was hit by a car while crossing the street the other day and was alright.  Minor cuts, scratches, and was shaken up a little.  No broken bones.  THANK GOODNESS!!!   Okay, this is turning out to be one of those days.  Might as well go motorcycling cause I ain't getting a whole lot of building done.

We stopped after finishing the bottom side so Tami could be prom beautician again.

Riveting the leading edge was a mixture of riveting in the vertical and horizontal positions while it was in the stand.  While the stand was clamped vertically, we were able to get all but the 4 most leading rivets on the top and the 1 most leading rivet on the bottom.  To get those, we had to clamp the leading edge horizontally in the stand.

Notice where clamps are placed.  This held the leading edge steady enough to rivet and clamping as shown below, there was no stress to the skin that would cause it to deform (i.e.: clamps are directly over the vertical risers of the stand).  We had to shuffle the leading edge around a couple of times in the stand to get to all of the remaining rivet holes.

If I was going to build this stand again, I would do it with slightly different dimensions to keep the stand from interfering clecoes.

We started on the bottom side of the leading edge and the riveting process today was going really smooth.  No nuances or difficult situations.  On one of the last rivets for the bottom side, Tami slipped off the rivet with the bucking bar and gave it a nice stair step shop head (trust me, hard to see in the pict, but its there).  I very calmly told Tami it was okay, drilled it out, and dropped in a new rivet, no problem.  We didn't need drill out any rivets on the top side.  WooHoo!!

When we got done riveting it all together, I riveted the plate nuts to the joint plate (W-423).  Everything lined up great...

Of course, when we got done, I had to see what it looked like on the wing.  I just put a couple of clecoes through the skin and the spar to hold it for the night.  Everything lined up great.  Getting closer to riveting it to the spar for good.

Just another picture of the bottom side.  Even my tie down hole lined up really well with the tie down bracket...

Tomorrow, I am going to tackle installing a Duckworks landing light (I think).  I gotta cut a big hole in the outboard bay skin.  I sure hope I don't make any mistakes 8^).  I am planning on that process to take me the entire day.

Not much to report regarding forward progress on the plane.  After drilling holes for the better part of yesterday, I spent a couple of hours deburring the following parts:

✓ Lower wing skins (debur)
✓ Fuel tank / Leading edge joint plate (debur and dimple)
✓ Leading edge skins and ribs (debur)

For the leading edge, I also drilled out for the plate nuts that will eventually be used to mount the fuel tank with.  Not real exciting stuff here.  Only one picture today.

Tami got back after spending the weekend with my sisters and mother.  Another one of them "girls weekends".  That makes two in a row for her.

As I figured, she spent the majority of the weekend shopping with my sisters.  That is it... She is grounded from "girls only weekends" (at least my shopping side of the family).

She sort of redeemed herself as she helped debur when she got home.  It sure makes that repetitive process go a little faster when she helps.  WooHoo.

I had decided to go with the capacitive fuel senders and I am getting close to working on the first fuel tank so I thought that I would take a look and see what parts were included with the kit.  This sure looks like a lot of parts just to indicate fuel tank level.  After looking the print over, I decided to shelf the fuel tank for the night and work on the leading edge instead.

I dimpled the leading edge skin.  This went pretty well.  Tami was planting flowers so tonight was a one builder operation.  I knocked as many dimples out as I could with the pneumatic squeezer and what I couldn't get with the squeezer, I had to break out the C-frame for.

I have decided to prime the inside of the wing skins.  I just can't believe that it would add any more than a couple of pounds to the overall weight.  My wing skins are flawless for scratches at the moment, however, the leading edge and the joint plate got scratched when fitting everything together.  That said, I got the leading edge remaining parts alumiprepped and alodined.  I will try to prime the parts tomorrow if the temperature is not to miserable.  It is supposed to be in the 90's and it is only April.  YUK!!!