Today was the first day in a couple of weeks I could spend on the plane.  I picked up on fabricating the wing tie-down assemblies.  To determine placement, the prints have you measure one hole on the top right.  After the first hole is drilled, run a AN3 bolt through the hole to help with alignment.  Once I was happy with my alignment, I used two vise-grip clamps to hold it in place.  I then flipped the main spar over and back drilled all the remaining holes.

The next task was to fabricate the spacers that go behind the tie-down bracket.  The trick with these is to measure out the first spacer from the block material you get and cut your 1" lightening hole before you cut off your spacer to length.  If you cut your spacer to length first, it is really hard to hold on to when drilling your lightening hole.

After you get the lightening holes fabricated and cut the spacer to length, you need to match drill with the holes in the main spar.  If you note, the holes for the K1000-3 plate nuts are not centered on the spacers.  It is not possible for these to be centered.  It looks odd, but if you look closely at Van's prints, they don't look centered there either.  Once the plate nut holes were drilled, the rivet holes that are used to mount the plate nuts to the tie down bracket are countersunk (AN426) rivets, so I machined countersunk the spacers so that the factory head will be flush up against the main spar when everything is put together.

I took the picture below to illustrate a misinterpretation (I had anyway) with the instructions on Van's print (DWG-15A, Rev 3).  Van's has you measure for the first hole (Top Right) in order to determine placement.  Additionally, there is a note that says the edge of the W-731 tie-down bar is parallel to the outboard edge of the main spar web.  Where I was confused was that I interpreted the parallel to the main spar web to mean flush.  This is not the case.

What I did to measure placement of this bracket was put a AN-3 bolt through the hole I drilled and then eyeballed alignment.  To get it straight, I measured from the edge of the main spar web to the edge of the tie down bracket (i.e.: how far the tie down bracket overhung the spar web) both the top and bottom and made sure they were equal.  SHOULD BE STRAIGHT.

My next step is to prime and mount the tie downs to the main spar with the aileron bell cranks.  I am waiting until I have more parts to prime before I finish these up.

I was a little disappointed with Van's instructions on the next task.  I moved on to the rear spar fabrication and one of the first things the instructions state to do is to trim the edges of of W-707G & D (Rear Spar Reinforcement fork and Rear Spar Doubler Plate).  So I broke out my print (DWG-10A) and in detail C there is a note for RV-7/7A builders only that states to trim the rear spar reinforcements but there are no dimensions listed.  The note on DWG-10A also refers you to DWG-38.

I don't have DWG-38 because that is a fuselage print, but guess where the dimensions for trimming the wing spar reinforcements is located?  if you are trimming the reinforcements in the Wing Kit, WHY DON'T THEY PUT THOSE DIMENSIONS IN A WING KIT DRAWING???  However, you do have all the drawings in the preview plans, so I looked at DWG-38 and sure enough there were the dimensions for trimming the rear spar reinforcements.  I am a little leery about making cuts to parts from prints in the preview plans as Van's states that they are not always current.

Anyway, when measured out on the rear spar reinforcements, this is what it looks like.

We always "match drill" in this kit so here I am match cutting.  I cleco'd the two spar reinforcements together and made one cut.  I cut them a little long and then went to the Scotchbrite wheel to take them to final dimensions.  They turned out really nice I just hope Van's hasn't revised those dimensions.

The next step was to fabricate the W-707E (Spar Center Reinforcement).  This is the component that has the weird or oblong shaped hole in it where the aileron pushrod goes through.  This is one of the few pieces I have run across that isn't pre-punched.  Just measure 50 3/4" from the outboard end of the spar, clamp in place, turn the spar over, and back drill.  Piece Of Cake...

Here is the oblong hole I was talking about where the aileron pushrod goes through the rear spar.  After I drilled the rivet holes, I cleco'd the spar reinforcement in place.  I then took a 3/4" Unibit and drilled out the initial hole.  I bought a rotary burr cutter set a while back and I used one of the smaller bits to shape the reinforcement plate hole to its final shape.  These bits work great !$!$!  (Hint that these bits weren't cheap).  You need to hold the die grinder securely as the rotary burr cutter will "bite" take the die grinder right out of your hands if you don't watch what you are cutting closely.

Here is what that same hole looks like after I got done with the rotary burr bit.  To further finish this off, I deburred with the Dremel and a sanding drum.  To finish the deburring process, I used a 1" unitized EXL Scotchbrite wheel in the die grinder.  These holes turned out great!!

No exciting pictures, but I also completed the spar end reinforcement plate (W-707F) that is on the outside end of the spar.  Same deal, make flush with end of rear spar, clamp in place, turn spar over, back drill, rinse and repeat for the other wing.

Up to this point, I have done all the work on both wing simultaneously.  Once I am working in the jig, I will work one wing at a time.  It felt good to get back on to the project.  Only 3 weeks of classes left, but my homework is winding down.  I should have more regular entries in the log over the next couple of weeks.