This log entry is all about spending money $$$$$$$$.  Something that I never have enough of and can spend quicker than I can earn it.

Building has been really slow the last two weeks.  My stepson graduated high school last weekend and we had company for almost a week to celebrate.  Since I couldn't work on my plane, I ended up just spending money on it.  You know what they say about idle hands....

FIRST ACT OF IDLE HANDS WAS TO ORDER MY FUSELAGE KIT.

I had been sitting on the fence between the nose and taildragger ever since I ordered the empennage kit.  After months of thought with no clear reason for one or the other, I usually leaned torwards and finally opted for the taildragger.  I just couldn't get past the "COOL FACTOR" of the taildragger.   

The options I went with for the fuselage included:

• Dual Brakes
• Tip-Up Canopy
• Electric Aileron Trim

Subtract $5300 from my checking acount...

I originally saw a vanity plate similar to this on Dan Checkoway's web site.  He had set up some rvproject.com stuff he put together with an internet store.  However, by the time I wanted to order the vanity plate, I couldn't find it anywhere on his site.  So I did a internet search for vanity plates.  I found a company that would laser cut these and had a minimum quanity order of one.  It was $20 including shipping.  For those of you building a 7A, you could have a vanity plate cut just for you.  I have the successor to this plate ready to go: "I'D RATHER BE FLYING MY RV-7". 

I must come clean, there is a little hypocrisy in the plate below....  Who am I kidding, I WOULD RATHER BE FLYING MY RV-7

http://www.engravenet.com

Subtract $20 from my checking acount...

I also started "tooling up" for electrical installations.  I ordered 200 ft each of wire from 20 AWG to 16 AWG and ordered 50 ft each of 14 AWG to12 AWG.  I figured that this would be enough to get me started and through the wings.  These wires are the typical aircraft grade, stranded, Tefzel insulated wire.

Also pictured are some low profile cobra tie wraps, a variety of cherrymax blind rivets, and a 60 cc syringe to dispense small amounts of tank sealant (if I ever get to that point).  Aircraft Spruce is always a good place to drop $100 if you are casually surfing the web.

Download Cherrymax rivet technical information (.pdf)

Link to Cherrymax rivet installation animation

Subtract $274 from my checking acount...

I also committed to the type of quick disconnects I am going to use.  I considered the use of "weather pak" connectors.  Weather pak connectors are similar to the sealed connectors used by the car manufacturers for tail lighs, turn signals, etc.  Weather pak connectors use rubber seals both at the connector and at each wire penetration into the connector.  This keeps environmental influences out of your electrical connections.  The weather pak connector below is from my Duckworks landing light.

I always liked the AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors, but didn't know that they made rubber seals for them.  A fellow builder posted information to a company called Waytekwire on the Yahoo group a while back and when I went to check out their web site, I see that Waytekwire carried rubber seals for the Mate-N-Lok connectors.  COOL, I will be using the AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors when I want to have a quick disconnect.

Download AMP's Universal Mate-N-Lok installation instructions

I ordered a multitude of connector configuations.  Below, is just a sampling of the wire and interface seals.  Also pictured is pins and sockets for the Mate-N-Lok connectors.

I also ordered AMP's ratcheting crimper for the Mate-N-Lok connectors.  This is an AWESOME crimper.  The Mate-N-Lok dies crimp the pin/socket to the wire and the wires strain relief to the wires insulation.  Since the crimper is a modular type that will accept standard AMP dies, the dies can be changed to crimp standard wire lugs in the insulated or uninsulated flavor.  Looking at Tyco Electronics web site, this crimper will accept 75+ different dies.  Including those for coax connectors.

Let me express my opinion about crimpers.  Working as an electrician (day job), the only crimpers we are allowed to use are the ratcheting, full compelling type.  Crimpers that are nothing but a glorified pair of pliers are not allowed FOR ANY ELECTRICAL CRIMP.  The reason being is that a consistent, quality crimp is hard to accomplish.  Additionally, they don't usually form the crimp uniformly around the barrel of the lug.  This results in a crimp that may not fully grip the wire so not only will the wire pull out of the lug easier, it may have a difficult time handling rated current through the crimped connection.

I am ocassionally amazed at builders who worry about a gap of 1/64" between the fuel tank and leading edge (just an example), but in their next breath, they use a hammer to crimp the barrel of the lugs to their battery cables.

A good quality ratcheting crimper is not all that expensive.  SPEND THE MONEY....  They are worth it.

I also ordered a couple of terminal strips of each size from Waytekwire.  These are the 150 volt, 20 amp terminals that use a #6 screw.

I recommend taking a look at Waytekwire.  They have some nice stuff.  Not the cheapest in town, but nonetheless, worth a look.  Their website address is:

http://www.waytekwire.com

My impressions of Waytekwire:

THE GOOD: 

• They carry electrical components that I have not found any place else.  For example; I found "breakouts" and T-connectors" for wiring looms.  AWESOME!!!  I was wondering how I could run wires out to the wingtip through the wiring conduit and have a "T-connection" to run 2 wires up to my pitot tube using the same conduit holes in the ribs.
• Shipping was quick, but of course they are out of Minnesota so they are almost next door.

THE BAD:  

• Some of their products require a minimum quantity.  For the Mate-N-Lok connector housings, you had to order something like 50+ of each type.  For the housings, I will be ordering from Mouser Electronics.  Mouser has no minimums and their prices were a little better.
• I had a difficult time ordering from them on-line.  After filling my shopping cart up with components, the dang web browser would crash.  I tried both Mac and Windows browsers/computers.

Subtract another $400 from my checking account.

Last, but not least on this spending spree, I ordered a 24,000 BTU ductless, split type air conditioner / heat pump.  This will cool the garage in the summer and heat it in the winter.  Already this spring, we are having temps in the high 80's and low 90's with stiffling humidities.  After working all day in the heat, I want to have a comfortable environment to build my plane in.  My garage is finished and insulated so I think that the air conditioner will work great.  A friend of mine at work is going to get the air conditioner wholesale and install it for me at cost.  WooHoo!!!

Subtract alot of $$$$$ from my checking account.

OUCH....  I got to get back to working on the plane so that I can recover from this spending episode.  Ooh maybe I should be working some OT to pay for this stuff.