Finally,  I am starting to assemble things for good.  Within about 15 minutes of riveting, Tami and I ran into our first challenge.  Each rib has two rivets that are riveted to the main spar flange.  The aft rivet hole is also riveted with the wing skin.  My plan was to rivet the forward hole (where the arrows are pointing) as we progressed down the skin.  Well, that worked pretty well until we got to the wing walk doubler area.  Because the tank plate nuts are closer together in this area and angled, we couldn't get the bucking bar square to set these 3 rivets.

I tried back riveting these 3 rivets, but couldn't get the rivet hammer in between the ribs and keep it square.

I must have missed this in Van's instructions...  I also couldn't find a rivet callout for these rib to spar rivet holes.  The AN426AD3-4 rivet provided the proper GO-No Go measurements.  This is the same rivet called out for the skin / spar / rib holes.  For those holes, the rivets measure slightly short when they are measured with the Go-No Go gauge.  I checked the print three times and I had the correct rivets called out by Van's.

You can see why the forward hole was a challenge.  The plate nut is angled toward that forward rivet.

After trying several things, I decided to grind down yet another tool.  After unleashing the bench grinder on the only bucking bar I haven't deformed yet, I was ready to try again.  The good news was, that the bucking bar fit and we were able to set those three rivets correctly.

Do yourself a favor and rivet all the forward rib flange to spar flange rivets prior to clecoing the skin on for the last time.

This is a picture of my "scarf joint"after it was riveted together.  I thought that it looked pretty good.

The excellence in Van's pre-punched kits show here.  This is a perfect seam.  The skins between the leading edge and top skins are perfectly aligned.  There probably isn't even 0.001" between the two.

Riveting the wing skins on is, for the most part, easy work with quick rewards.  The one exception to this is the picture below.  After getting the skins riveted on, I started working on the skin to rear spar rivets.  The picture below is the rear spar on the inboard side.  The rear spar reinforcements made riveted EXTREMELY difficult (for me anyway).  I couldn't get a squeezer in here as the yokes would not put the flat dies over the entire rivet (see 2nd and 3rd rivet from the right).  I then tried to buck these rivets...  That worked a little better, but I couldn't get the bucking bar square either so the shop heads were not nice and straight the way I like them.

I ended up drilling out over a half of dozen $^%@&*# rivets in this section alone (not to mention regaining my proficiency in cussing out loud).  Riveting this area by the spar reinforcement and the difficulty it gave me resulted in my use of the first OOOPS Rivet on whole project.  When I drilled one of the rivets out (probably for the third time), the rivet hole on the spar got enlarged.  I used a OOOPS rivet to make sure that the shop head was going to hold the spar.

Just a nice shot of the bottom of the wing with the skins riveted on.

LOOK MA>>>  NO CLECO's.  Getting the wing to this stage of completion was the first feeling of getting somewhere for a long time.  Overall, the top skins of the wing are not difficult to rivet (except as mentioned above).  I did notice that a number of the rivet callouts for the wing resulted in an adequate shop head width, but not adequate height.  Rivets that especially come to mind are the rear spar to skin rivets where the reinforcement plates are located on the outboard and where the aileron push rod goes through the rear spar.  The print calls out AN425AD3-4, but they came out short, so I ended up using 3-4.5 rivets that looked much better when set.

By the time I got the skins riveted on, I was ready to call it a night, however, I started thinking about getting this wire loom (conduit) run through the wing rib holes I had drilled.  It was kind of a pain in the a_s to get this in, mainly by the wing walk area where the ribs are so close together.  I just push and pulled it through one corrugation at a time.  it took a while, but following Van's directions for hole size (3/4") definitely results of the loom "snapping" into the rib hole.  I definitely don't think that it will pull out of those rib holes.