When I got home from work tonight, my eagerly awaited order from Aircraft Spruce was sitting in the garage.  I did end up breaking down and ordered a cheap rivet cutter.  While I was ordering from Spruce, I got some hand protector cream, and a bunch of AN fittings.  When I ran a fuel return line back to the tank, I had to steal kit parts from the left tank so I ordered a bunch of AN fittings to replace the ones I used and to more or less put together my "starter kit" of fittings.

I had ordered the ez-turn lubricant in anticipation of fuel tank testing.  In addition to a lubricant, anti-seize material, it seals threaded connections.  In the background, are the AN fittings needed to cap off my tank penetrations.  The brass looking component is a schraeder valve (like the air valve on your car tires).  That was part of Van's fuel tank testing kit and is threaded into the tank drain connection to allow you to place the fuel tank under a slight pressure.

Here you can see my vent line and fuel return line bulkhead fittings.  I just used some 1/4" tygon tubing and a hose clamp in order to make a makeshift manometer.  Before putting the tygon tubing on the fuel return line, I gooped the threads with the ez-turn lubricant.  A number of builders have stated that they couldn't get a good seal at this connection as the tygon tubing wouldn't seal around the threads.  Lubricating the threads worked GREAT.  I torqued the -4D cap fitting to 45 in-lbs and I torqued the -6D fuel pickup cap to 80 in-lbs (which are at the low end of their torque ranges).

I didn't have any leaks at this connection.

This is more for my records, but this was the temp in the garage at the fuel tank.  Temps in the area are supposed to get in the low 90's and just a couple of degree swing in the garage is showing an effect on the water height in the tygon tubing.

Here is an overall picture of my manometer setup.  I used some RED food coloring to give the water a high color contrast in the tube.  NO, your manometer tubing doesn't need to be as high as I have it in the picture.  I just didn't want to cut my 10' length of tubing.

Below, is the schraeder valve I mentioned earlier threaded into the tank drain fitting.  Just put a tire pump on this fitting and pressurize the tank until you get a difference in water column height in your manometer.

In Van's book "21 years of the RVator" (page 69), there is an article about pressure testing the fuel tank.  In that article, it mentions that pressure in the tank should stay below 1 psi.  Using an air compressor to apply pressure to the fuel tank could result in over pressurizing the fuel tank that I have WAY TO MANY HOURS IN.  Therefore, I just used a bicycle pump.  It only takes a couple of strokes of this little bicycle pump to get the desired height difference in the manometer.  1/2 of a stroke on this pump gave me over an 1" of height change.

I had some "Snoop" laying around the garage so I snooped all the rivets, fittings, etc. until I ran out.  NO IDENTIFIED LEAKS YET!!!!

Although I didn't get any leaks around my fuel filler cap with the snoop, I was seeing a change in water column height, so as a precaution, I duct taped around the fuel filler flange.  In retrospect, I think that it was just the air entrapped in the manometer that bubbled up and out of the manometer.

Here is a blurry picture, but I pumped up the fuel tank until I had a difference in water column height and I marked it on the wing stand with the time.  I marked the line at 8:30 pm and I snapped the picture almost 2 hours later.  IT IS LOOKING REALLY GOOD FOR NO LEAKS!!!!

I will leave this setup overnight and see how it does.  I am running the air conditioner in the garage so temperatures should remain within a degree or two during the pressure test.  I am also marking indications taken from my altimeter to monitor atmospheric pressure changes so that I can reconcile any changes in water column height.