I am on vacation this week and instead of spending a couple of days at Airventure, we decided (or more appropriately, I decided) to come home early and work on the RV.  It became a financial decision of sorts.  I figured that to fly over, rent a car, get a room, and tickets to the airshow, I would be spending somewhere in the neighboorhood of $500-600 for just two days of drooling over airplanes.  I thought the money I would be spending at Airventure would be better spent on flying or putting those funds towards the RV... Besides, being vacation, I thought that I could spend a couple of extra days leisurely finishing up the ailerons.

One of the few things I had left to do before assembling the left aileron was to drill the counterrweight (water pipe).  Since this is a round surface, the countersink is not going to make a perfectly round countersink.  I set up the drill press and used the standard microstop countersink cutter with the cage removed.

I have heard some builders just using a 100 degree standard drill bit to countersink the counterbalance weight.  I just stuck with the standard countersink cutter.

The 'V' bracket worked really well to hold the pipe in one location.

My method here was just to countersink the counterbalance weight slowly.  Without the stop installed, I didn't want to countersink to deeply.

I measured my countersink depth by fitting a CS4-4 rivet in the hole.  My target was to countersink just slightly deeper than the rivet to account for the thickness of the skin.  The depth shown below here ended up being just about right.  I don't think that these have to be to terribly accurate as with other countersinking operations.  I just wanted to make sure that the rivets would sit as flush as possible.

In order to hold the aileron leading edge while dimpling the holes in the leading edge, I set up a 2" x 4" on edge on top of a flat 2" x  4" and clamped them together.  This held the leading edge off the table while I dimpled the leading edge.  This worked pretty well.

In order to dimple the leading edge of the aileron, I attached the male dimple die to the shaft of the C-frame dimpler

You don't need to pound to hard on the male dimple die.  If you hold the dimple die and c-frame shaft near the dimple die, you can feel when you have dimpled fully.

A 'dry fit' of the blind rivet shows a pretty good fit for being on a bend.